Shackleton's Ghost

Perhaps you have heard of Shackleton and the Trans-Antarctic Expedition. Perhaps you have even given consideration to the perils those men faced in order to survive months spent in the most unforgiving place on our planet.

But even now on the centennial of the event with the myriad of books and documentaries that cover the topic so well, we will still never know. It is not our fault. We just were not there. Unless we feel the numb that the cold forces or the hunger that brews madness, how can we ever understand what it takes to overcome it?

Were it not for Shackleton's unyielding and humored leadership, who knows what the final tally of survivors would have been - most likely none at all. Though his attempts to make the South Pole failed, the story of how he tended to the fires of his men's spirits is what makes him the legend amongst the role call of polar explorers.

Recently, I had the fortune to set out aboard the National Geographic Orion to trail the path of survival Shackleton and his men took. Not shying away from authenticating the journey, we took the vessel into the Weddell Sea and planted her firmly into the sea ice for an afternoon of snow ball fights and champagne.

After a week spent investigating the Antarctic peninsula enjoying the marine mammals and brush tailed penguins, we crossed the Scotia Sea to reach Elephant Island. Like Shackleton and his men, we first came to Cape Valentine but it was as clear to us, as it must have been one hundred years before, that this was not an ideal place to make camp.

Next we arrived at Point Wild - the location where the men decided to make camp. Hiding behind the glacier to protect themselves from the wind, the James Caird was made ready for Shackleton and some hand picked companions to make the 800 nautical mile journey across to South Georgia.

Following their track, we reached Cape Rosa, South Georgia. It was on this island that they would eventually find rescue at Stromness Whaling Station, but not before climbing through the middle of the night across the jagged peaks that separated them from the other side of the island.

The details have been accounted for. The story of Shackleton is told, but what resonants most is his refusal to die. A stubbornness that he infused in all of his men to keep them alive (even the stowaway). In this modern day, we call many leader, but have sparse examples as to what that should mean.

Shackleton now lies at Grytviken, a ghost of another of the whaling stations that populated South Georgia during the era.

Standing amidst the ruins gives one a sense for the world that was. Men of industry and adventure who turned down the coming world war for a chance to place a foot on untouched soil. These days such exploits are reserved for space and the ocean's depth and in those journeys we can only hope that another Shackleton will arise.