The Wilds of Alaska

Alaska provides.

Redefining our notions of wilderness.

Eliminating the gap that we imagine exists between ourselves and the natural world.

Letting us breathe again.

Far away from the stains with which we have colored the world.

And if it is only for a day, then a good day it is to reset our expectations for how we should interact with the creatures inhabiting this world.

My First Magazine Cover - The Walden Quarterly

Spring 2015 issue - featuring an 8 page spread of photography from Antarctica, Alaska, and other far flung locales and including an interview that attempts to explain what exactly an Undersea Specialist gets up to down there.

Befriending the Leviathan – The Gray Whales of Baja California

How easily we draw the line that separates us from the wild. Presuming that our ability to name the creatures of this world somehow separates us from them, and worse yet gives us dominion to do with them as we please.

Yet out of all the places in the world where we have abused animal life as a resource, none tell a more magical tale than the lagoon of San Ignacio in Baja California where the California Gray Whales have suffered both slaughter and revival.

Beginning in 1845, these whales were found to be easy prey for the bold whalers that chose to hunt them. Injuring the newly born calves, the whalers knew that the mother would seek to help her young, thus dooming herself to die under the heft of their spears. Such hunting was easily accomplished with the known breeding grounds with water too shallow for the whales to dive and escape.

Without conscience, the slaughter brought the California Gray Whales down to the brink of extinction with population estimates at only 250 whales remaining in the North Pacific at the time. Luckily, Mexico stepped up and became the first country to enact protection over these magnificent and intelligent creatures, and over the last one hundred plus years the whales have been recovering and greatly adding to their numbers.

With the fortune of visiting the lagoon aboard the National Geographic Sea Lion, I was privileged to encounter these marine mammals in the very place that they are born. In the shallows water, the mother’s exercise their young against the current to prepare them for the five thousand mile journey to the feeding grounds of Alaska.

Once known as the Devil Fish for how fiercely they fought against the whalers, the Gray Whale mothers now, unbelievably, encourage their calves to approach. Out of all the marine mammals encounters that I have enjoyed, this one takes the prize.

Petting the calves as they rolled and rubbed our zodiac, I was close enough to look into their eyes, see the newly growing hairs that remind of the heritage that we share, and even get my hat blown off when they exhaled.

Words have no place in trying to describe the experience, thus I share some of the images I was able to capture with hope that the reader will be as endeared to them as I am, and perhaps visit such a place for themselves one day.

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All photos © Paul North (unless otherwise noted)

Shackleton's Ghost

Perhaps you have heard of Shackleton and the Trans-Antarctic Expedition. Perhaps you have even given consideration to the perils those men faced in order to survive months spent in the most unforgiving place on our planet.

But even now on the centennial of the event with the myriad of books and documentaries that cover the topic so well, we will still never know. It is not our fault. We just were not there. Unless we feel the numb that the cold forces or the hunger that brews madness, how can we ever understand what it takes to overcome it?

Were it not for Shackleton's unyielding and humored leadership, who knows what the final tally of survivors would have been - most likely none at all. Though his attempts to make the South Pole failed, the story of how he tended to the fires of his men's spirits is what makes him the legend amongst the role call of polar explorers.

Recently, I had the fortune to set out aboard the National Geographic Orion to trail the path of survival Shackleton and his men took. Not shying away from authenticating the journey, we took the vessel into the Weddell Sea and planted her firmly into the sea ice for an afternoon of snow ball fights and champagne.

After a week spent investigating the Antarctic peninsula enjoying the marine mammals and brush tailed penguins, we crossed the Scotia Sea to reach Elephant Island. Like Shackleton and his men, we first came to Cape Valentine but it was as clear to us, as it must have been one hundred years before, that this was not an ideal place to make camp.

Next we arrived at Point Wild - the location where the men decided to make camp. Hiding behind the glacier to protect themselves from the wind, the James Caird was made ready for Shackleton and some hand picked companions to make the 800 nautical mile journey across to South Georgia.

Following their track, we reached Cape Rosa, South Georgia. It was on this island that they would eventually find rescue at Stromness Whaling Station, but not before climbing through the middle of the night across the jagged peaks that separated them from the other side of the island.

The details have been accounted for. The story of Shackleton is told, but what resonants most is his refusal to die. A stubbornness that he infused in all of his men to keep them alive (even the stowaway). In this modern day, we call many leader, but have sparse examples as to what that should mean.

Shackleton now lies at Grytviken, a ghost of another of the whaling stations that populated South Georgia during the era.

Standing amidst the ruins gives one a sense for the world that was. Men of industry and adventure who turned down the coming world war for a chance to place a foot on untouched soil. These days such exploits are reserved for space and the ocean's depth and in those journeys we can only hope that another Shackleton will arise.

Ugly Chick Competition – King Penguins

Before we get started, let us level the playing field by recognizing that growing up is tough work. This stands as a universal truth for every species on our planet, but few have such a dynamic and aesthetically hysterical transition as the offspring of King Penguins.

Long before their golden sheen develops, they are forced to spend their beginning days on shore taking what food their parents offer until they shed their dense juvenile feathers and are able to swim and feed themselves.

Initially, they appear much larger than they actually are with brown feathers dry and fluffed. At this point, they are known as Oakum Boys – a term adopted from the loose fibers that were dipped in tar and used to caulk the occasional hole in a wooden ships.

Because of their size, it takes King Penguins chicks 14-16 months before they reach adult plumage and are ready to hunt on their own and the transition of feathers is never simultaneous. Leaving all manner of outrageous ‘hair cuts’ to marvel at.

As with all things, not all of the chicks will live to reach adulthood, but those who do will create one of the largest concentrations of life able to be witnessed in one place – South Georgia island.

Until that time though, they are perfectly fine prancing their youthful punk for anyone wishing to see.

King Penguins of South Georgia Island

Whether or not we have the capacity to admit it, much of the world we know was segmented long before we had the chance to experience it. We cherish the natural world, but are rarely able to see it without boundaries. So when I learned that I would be traveling to South Georgia Island - a remote landscape in the South Atlantic - I began to do research to get a sense for what I would see. It was not until I arrived though that the full impact of the wildlife began to effect me.

Both my eyes and camera had trouble focusing due to the vast numbers of King Penguins taking over the landscape from the surf line continuing way back in the hills where glaciers hung.

The second largest of all penguin species after the Emperors, King Penguins can stand over 3 feet tall. Reaching their adult plumage, they appear as if painted.

Their feathers have great complexity, layered in a way to make them completely water proof. Combined with the ability to control each feather individually, these King Penguins can quickly air themselves out to dry when on land.

And as the seasons turn they molt the old feathers to make room for the new.

South Georgia is a rare place in this crowded world. An island absent of man, except for the few who stand steadfast to guard it. The amount of life sends a shock through the system. Reminding one of what the world was before our innovation began to wear away at it.

Many more King Penguin photos to come!

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Antarctic Fur Seal Encounters

Waking at 3:30am just off of South Georgia Island to catch the rising sun, I was filled with great anticipation to encounter one of the largest King Penguin colonies in the world. Reaching the beach though, I could not help but be charmed by the numerous Antarctic Fur Seal pups guarding the shore.


If you have not heard of South Georgia Island, it is because it is about as remote as islands get in the Atlantic. Nearly 900 nautical miles east of the bottom tip of South America, it is the perfect place for all manner of sea birds to come to breed. It tops the list of any bird lover wanting to see dense populations and wide variety, but it is also where 95% of Antarctic Fur Seals choose to breed and bear their young.


Hunted near to extinction at the height of the whaling days in the Southern Ocean, these Fur Seals have enjoyed a massive rebound in numbers. This was evident the moment our feet touched the beach as the smallest of pups boldly charged us, bearing their teeth as if to attack only to turn at the last second realizing their large disadvantage in size.


This behavior forces me to say how cute they are, but cute they will not remain!

The males specifically will grow into large, toothy fighting machines – reaching over 400 pounds. Like many seals they will fight for control over a harem of females in order that the strongest of their species survive and from the beginning the pups practice for the wars to come.

For now though, the large males were entirely absent. Having done the work of the mating season, they have returned out to feed on the abundant krill in the cold waters. Each consuming up to one ton of krill per year!

I, for one, enjoy the knowledge of what they will become. It allows a greater appreciation for the playful practices witnessed. I have more than a thousand King Penguin photos to edit and I promise to post them soon. Until then enjoy unassuming innocence of these small wonders.