Antarctic Fur Seal Encounters

Waking at 3:30am just off of South Georgia Island to catch the rising sun, I was filled with great anticipation to encounter one of the largest King Penguin colonies in the world. Reaching the beach though, I could not help but be charmed by the numerous Antarctic Fur Seal pups guarding the shore.


If you have not heard of South Georgia Island, it is because it is about as remote as islands get in the Atlantic. Nearly 900 nautical miles east of the bottom tip of South America, it is the perfect place for all manner of sea birds to come to breed. It tops the list of any bird lover wanting to see dense populations and wide variety, but it is also where 95% of Antarctic Fur Seals choose to breed and bear their young.


Hunted near to extinction at the height of the whaling days in the Southern Ocean, these Fur Seals have enjoyed a massive rebound in numbers. This was evident the moment our feet touched the beach as the smallest of pups boldly charged us, bearing their teeth as if to attack only to turn at the last second realizing their large disadvantage in size.


This behavior forces me to say how cute they are, but cute they will not remain!

The males specifically will grow into large, toothy fighting machines – reaching over 400 pounds. Like many seals they will fight for control over a harem of females in order that the strongest of their species survive and from the beginning the pups practice for the wars to come.

For now though, the large males were entirely absent. Having done the work of the mating season, they have returned out to feed on the abundant krill in the cold waters. Each consuming up to one ton of krill per year!

I, for one, enjoy the knowledge of what they will become. It allows a greater appreciation for the playful practices witnessed. I have more than a thousand King Penguin photos to edit and I promise to post them soon. Until then enjoy unassuming innocence of these small wonders.

Seabirds of the Drake Passage

Headed out from our embarkation port of Ushuaia, Argentina the National Geographic Orion pointed south toward the Antarctic Peninsula. Followed by a myriad of sea birds, I enjoyed the challenge of trying to capture them on film as they swooped past our vessel using the updraft to cruise above the waves.

Sooty Albatross

These birds spend the majority of their lives flying above the open ocean. Only returning to land when the season calls for them to mate and hatch their young. Using the strong westerly winds, it is rare to see them flap their wings.

Pintado Petrel

Conserving their energy, some are even known to spend weeks at a time without landing due to the consistency of the wind and its ability to carry them many hundreds of miles in search of available food.

Black Browed Albatross

Southern Petrel

I never thought I would consider an albatross sighting to be a common thing, but after seeing more than a hundred I now view them as welcome travelling companions.

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