King Penguins of South Georgia Island

Whether or not we have the capacity to admit it, much of the world we know was segmented long before we had the chance to experience it. We cherish the natural world, but are rarely able to see it without boundaries. So when I learned that I would be traveling to South Georgia Island - a remote landscape in the South Atlantic - I began to do research to get a sense for what I would see. It was not until I arrived though that the full impact of the wildlife began to effect me.

Both my eyes and camera had trouble focusing due to the vast numbers of King Penguins taking over the landscape from the surf line continuing way back in the hills where glaciers hung.

The second largest of all penguin species after the Emperors, King Penguins can stand over 3 feet tall. Reaching their adult plumage, they appear as if painted.

Their feathers have great complexity, layered in a way to make them completely water proof. Combined with the ability to control each feather individually, these King Penguins can quickly air themselves out to dry when on land.

And as the seasons turn they molt the old feathers to make room for the new.

South Georgia is a rare place in this crowded world. An island absent of man, except for the few who stand steadfast to guard it. The amount of life sends a shock through the system. Reminding one of what the world was before our innovation began to wear away at it.

Many more King Penguin photos to come!

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Antarctic Fur Seal Encounters

Waking at 3:30am just off of South Georgia Island to catch the rising sun, I was filled with great anticipation to encounter one of the largest King Penguin colonies in the world. Reaching the beach though, I could not help but be charmed by the numerous Antarctic Fur Seal pups guarding the shore.


If you have not heard of South Georgia Island, it is because it is about as remote as islands get in the Atlantic. Nearly 900 nautical miles east of the bottom tip of South America, it is the perfect place for all manner of sea birds to come to breed. It tops the list of any bird lover wanting to see dense populations and wide variety, but it is also where 95% of Antarctic Fur Seals choose to breed and bear their young.


Hunted near to extinction at the height of the whaling days in the Southern Ocean, these Fur Seals have enjoyed a massive rebound in numbers. This was evident the moment our feet touched the beach as the smallest of pups boldly charged us, bearing their teeth as if to attack only to turn at the last second realizing their large disadvantage in size.


This behavior forces me to say how cute they are, but cute they will not remain!

The males specifically will grow into large, toothy fighting machines – reaching over 400 pounds. Like many seals they will fight for control over a harem of females in order that the strongest of their species survive and from the beginning the pups practice for the wars to come.

For now though, the large males were entirely absent. Having done the work of the mating season, they have returned out to feed on the abundant krill in the cold waters. Each consuming up to one ton of krill per year!

I, for one, enjoy the knowledge of what they will become. It allows a greater appreciation for the playful practices witnessed. I have more than a thousand King Penguin photos to edit and I promise to post them soon. Until then enjoy unassuming innocence of these small wonders.

Leopard Seal Encounters

It has been a quite a wait, but it was well worth it. Out of all the creatures living on this earth (that we know about) the Leopard Seal has been on the top of my list ever since I learned of its existence. Why am I getting so excited about a seal that reaches over 12 feet and can put down 20+ penguins a day without blinking? Maybe a few pictures can help answer that question…

Outside of Killer Whales there are no marine mammals regarded as such pure and cunning hunters. Patrolling the waters of the Southern Ocean, Leopard Seals are mainly found in Antarctica.

Though not as quick as the variety of penguin species that they hunt, they use the surrounding icebergs to hide until the opportune moment when the penguins leave their nesting grounds and reenter the water.

Able to open their mouth to a gaping 120 degrees, these Leopard Seals take quick hold of their prey before thrashing them violently in order to remove the skin and feathers entirely from the captured penguins.

Vicious? Yes. Beautiful? Absolutely. Continuing to dive in Antarctic waters I can only hope that one is curious enough to one day swim over and interact with me.

Seabirds of the Drake Passage

Headed out from our embarkation port of Ushuaia, Argentina the National Geographic Orion pointed south toward the Antarctic Peninsula. Followed by a myriad of sea birds, I enjoyed the challenge of trying to capture them on film as they swooped past our vessel using the updraft to cruise above the waves.

Sooty Albatross

These birds spend the majority of their lives flying above the open ocean. Only returning to land when the season calls for them to mate and hatch their young. Using the strong westerly winds, it is rare to see them flap their wings.

Pintado Petrel

Conserving their energy, some are even known to spend weeks at a time without landing due to the consistency of the wind and its ability to carry them many hundreds of miles in search of available food.

Black Browed Albatross

Southern Petrel

I never thought I would consider an albatross sighting to be a common thing, but after seeing more than a hundred I now view them as welcome travelling companions.

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My First Dive in Antarctica - Neptune's Bellows

December 2014 - 62°58′37″S 60°39′00″W

After a two day crossing of the Drake Passage, the National Geographic Explorer came upon Deception Island. Part of the South Shetlands archipelago and one of the safest harbors in the Antarctic, the island fooled whaling boats for many years. Causing them to sail on by without knowledge of the narrow entry and the safety therein.

The islands hidden nature is caused by the collapse of land following a volcanic eruption. Known as caldera, you may already be familiar with this geological phenomenon if you know of Oregon's Crater Lake. But whereas that is filled with crystal blue fresh water, Deception Island is open to the changing tides of the Southern Ocean.

Joined by my team of divers, Oscar Johansson and Jesper Westermark, the Baker and Head Chef onboard our vessel, we set off to dive the narrow entrance to Deception Island known as NEPTUNE'S BELLOWS. With a strong current and 30F water (-1C) it was not a place for any tomfoolery. Not to mention the potential traffic of large ships passing through.

Whereas Antarctica itself is considered a desert we quickly found that not to be the case underwater. Large Frond Tang (Kelp) stretched up to 8 meters curtaining down from the vertical walls leftover from the volcano's collapse.

Barely an inch of the islands substrate was visible. Covered entirely by sponges competing for real estate.

It was not until the late 1800's that we even realized that sponges were part of the Animal Kingdom. Now, the more we study them the more we learn how vital the role they play is in filtering our ocean's water. Here we see a magnified close up I was able to capture off of Haida Gwaii last summer. Note just how many canals there are for water to pass through which feeds the sponge and cleans the water simultaneously.

Descending to 92 feet, we found all manner of invertebrates. The most interesting being this isopod measuring nearly 5 inches as he reached out with antennae to see who was obstinate enough to put a camera in his face. Many more Antarctic dives to be posted, but there is nothing like the first!

Penguin Colony Lifecycle on the Antarctic Peninsula.

After a two day crossing of the Drake Passage, the National Geographic Explorer steered a course toward the penguin colonies upon Brown Bluff. Being the northernmost tip of the Antarctic Peninsula, it is a known location for penguin colonies.

Waiting for the austral summer to commence, the penguins know exactly when to come to ground to begin preparations. As the ice clears, moss and lichen begin to show their colors once again.

Here Adélie penguins gather in great numbers and choose to nest in close quarters. This can make nest building a bit of a competitive sport.

Choosing which beach rocks to build with is important and competition is everywhere.

Neighbors are not to be trusted, often stealing a rock away when someone is not looking.

But there is satisfaction when finding a mate who can help with the work load.

Once the chicks are hatched they are still in need of the parents warmth and protection.

And of course, the free meals that they provide.

This Brown Skua is one of the many predators that a penguin colony must endure. Patiently waiting at the edge of the colony, it seeks out those who stray too far from their parents' protection.

Unattended eggs also make a meal. Trading a life so that another may go on. As gruesome as this may seem, it is a necessary factor in maintaining the equilibrium of the colony's population.

The cold climate can preserve remains. Telling the story of survival in a landscape riddled with dangers.

And once the breeding season has run its course and the chicks are grown, it is back to the waters of the Southern Ocean to seek food and furtherance for these hearty, flightless birds.

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The Brush-Tail Penguins of Antarctica

Ending 2014 with a journey to the white continent of Antarctica was a dream. Working as the Undersea Specialist with Lindblad Expeditions/National Geographic allowed for many amazing wildlife encounters. Chief among them was meeting all three species of Brush-tail Penguins.

Generally described as 'cute' - I feel this word undermines the endurance and creativity of these survivors. Living in the most unforgiving environment on our planet, they swim, waddle, surf, and build in order to secure the future of their species.

Brush-tail #1: The Gentoo Penguins carefully select their rocks with which to build their nests.

Brush-tail #2: The Adélie Penguin heading to the ocean to feed.

Brush-tail #3: Chin-strap Penguins inspecting the water for predators before they dive in.

Many more photos of these little ones on the way. Until then I leave you with a picture of me in front of our mighty ice breaking vessel the National Geographic Explorer.

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