Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Diving Antarctica's Worst Environmental Tragedy

January 28, 1989 – The Bahia Paraiso, an Argentine Polar Transport vessel, requested access to Palmer research station, an American research outfit set up to conduct studies in Antarctica. The tourists aboard were eager to delay their route to resupply the Argentine station in order to see how operations were conducted.


Sadly, after their visit, not two miles away, the vessel ran aground near Janus and Delaca islands causing, undoubtedly, the worst environmental disaster to ever happen in Antarctic waters. Though none aboard were lost, more than 600,000 liters of diesel fuel and other petroleum products were put into the water affecting nearby penguin and cormorant colonies, as well as inflicting untold damage on the invertebrates and algae ecology upon the ocean floor.


February 21, 2015 – I dive into the water next to the remains of the shipwreck wondering why I had never heard of such a catastrophe. More than 25 years later, even after a multi-national clean up effort, an oil slick still remains like a dark halo surrounding the upended vessel. It does not take much research to understand the limits of our news cycle, for at the same time a catastrophe of exponentially worse proportions was occurring in the northern hemisphere. The Exxon Valdez running aground in the Prince William Sound of Alaska which decimated the herring population, wild salmon, sea otters and countless other life forms that live in those rich waters.

Wreck diving has grown into quite a spectacle of late. Much work being done to remove all environmentally harmful products before purposefully sinking vessels in order to create an artificial reef for marine organisms to colonize. Such sites draw many a tourist down into the water to poke and prod, enjoying the revival that often occurs, and though I have enjoyed many of these experiences myself – none are as jarring as the ghost of ship never to meant to sink.

The story of the Bahia Paraiso is blurred, as if often the case in tragedies, but what is certain is that Palmer Station hailed the vessel warning that it was unwise to follow the course they were on. They informed that the channel was narrow with rocks rising, but it appeared the captain was not in a listening mood.

When arriving at the dive site, the damage was quite clear with several holes ripped into the keel. As the waves washed over them, they spouted like the blowholes of a large whale. Descending upon the wreck, I immediately noticed that the superstructure had been crushed. All but the hull remained with sponges having long colonized the remains to create homes for whatever creatures cared to move in.

Finding no available entry into the vessel itself, I set out to explore its surroundings with my dive partner – Ashley Knight. What lay on the bottom was a small museum of modern seafaring.


A fire hose uncoiled, likely with the hope of minimizing the fatal damage done.

A Marine VHF Radio Telephone.

The broken valve to a tank of pressurized gas.

Equipment used to lower the safety boats, aiding in the survival of all onboard.

Even a portion of the minimized name of the vessel painted upon the bow.

The breast bone of a penguin long dead.

This large, misshapen piece of metal had me stumped.

Thus I brought the footage to Captain James Griffiths and Ice Officer Piers Alvarez of the National Geographic Orion and was informed that this was a piece of pig iron - a large, heavy and inexpensive way to give weight to the keel of the vessel. Most probably dislodged when striking the rocks at speed.

Perhaps, most curiously found was a lost cassette tape with any identifiers long worn off by the salt water’s corrosion – leaving one to wonder exactly what song was playing when the vessel ran aground.

As is the case with most wreck dives, we resurfaced with many unanswered questions about what circumstances had caused such a disaster. Visiting the nearby Palmer Station though, we had long conversations about species recovery in the decades that have followed. Nature always seems to find away, even with the amount of obstacles we put in its path.

Saturday, February 21, 2015

Ugly Chick Competition – King Penguins

Before we get started, let us level the playing field by recognizing that growing up is tough work. This stands as a universal truth for every species on our planet, but few have such a dynamic and aesthetically hysterical transition as the offspring of King Penguins.

Long before their golden sheen develops, they are forced to spend their beginning days on shore taking what food their parents offer until they shed their dense juvenile feathers and are able to swim and feed themselves.


Initially, they appear much larger than they actually are with brown feathers dry and fluffed. At this point, they are known as Oakum Boys – a term adopted from the loose fibers that were dipped in tar and used to caulk the occasional hole in a wooden ships.


Because of their size, it takes King Penguins chicks 14-16 months before they reach adult plumage and are ready to hunt on their own and the transition of feathers is never simultaneous. Leaving all manner of outrageous ‘hair cuts’ to marvel at.


As with all things, not all of the chicks will live to reach adulthood, but those who do will create one of the largest concentrations of life able to be witnessed in one place – South Georgia island.


Until that time though, they are perfectly fine prancing their youthful punk for anyone wishing to see.




Monday, February 16, 2015

King Penguins of South Georgia Island

Whether or not we have the capacity to admit it, much of the world we know was segmented long before we had the chance to experience it. We cherish the natural world, but are rarely able to see it without boundaries. So when I learned that I would be traveling to South Georgia Island - a remote landscape in the South Atlantic - I began to do research to get a sense for what I would see. It was not until I arrived though that the full impact of the wildlife began to effect me.


Both my eyes and camera had trouble focusing due to the vast numbers of King Penguins taking over the landscape from the surf line continuing way back in the hills where glaciers hung.


The second largest of all penguin species after the Emperors, King Penguins can stand over 3 feet tall. Reaching their adult plumage, they appear as if painted.


Their feathers have great complexity, layered in a way to make them completely water proof. Combined with the ability to control each feather individually, these King Penguins can quickly air themselves out to dry when on land.


And as the seasons turn they molt the old feathers to make room for the new.


South Georgia is a rare place in this crowded world. An island absent of man, except for the few who stand steadfast to guard it. The amount of life sends a shock through the system. Reminding one of what the world was before our innovation began to wear away at it.


Many more King Penguin photos to come!

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Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Antarctic Fur Seal Encounters

Waking at 3:30am just off of South Georgia Island to catch the rising sun, I was filled with great anticipation to encounter one of the largest King Penguin colonies in the world. Reaching the beach though, I could not help but be charmed by the numerous Antarctic Fur Seal pups guarding the shore.


If you have not heard of South Georgia Island, it is because it is about as remote as islands get in the Atlantic. Nearly 900 nautical miles east of the bottom tip of South America, it is the perfect place for all manner of sea birds to come to breed. It tops the list of any bird lover wanting to see dense populations and wide variety, but it is also where 95% of Antarctic Fur Seals choose to breed and bear their young.


Hunted near to extinction at the height of the whaling days in the Southern Ocean, these Fur Seals have enjoyed a massive rebound in numbers. This was evident the moment our feet touched the beach as the smallest of pups boldly charged us, bearing their teeth as if to attack only to turn at the last second realizing their large disadvantage in size.


This behavior forces me to say how cute they are, but cute they will not remain!

The males specifically will grow into large, toothy fighting machines – reaching over 400 pounds. Like many seals they will fight for control over a harem of females in order that the strongest of their species survive and from the beginning the pups practice for the wars to come.

For now though, the large males were entirely absent. Having done the work of the mating season, they have returned out to feed on the abundant krill in the cold waters. Each consuming up to one ton of krill per year!

I, for one, enjoy the knowledge of what they will become. It allows a greater appreciation for the playful practices witnessed. I have more than a thousand King Penguin photos to edit and I promise to post them soon. Until then enjoy unassuming innocence of these small wonders.

Tuesday, February 3, 2015

Leopard Seal Encounters

It has been a quite a wait, but it was well worth it. Out of all the creatures living on this earth (that we know about) the Leopard Seal has been on the top of my list ever since I learned of its existence. Why am I getting so excited about a seal that reaches over 12 feet and can put down 20+ penguins a day without blinking? Maybe a few pictures can help answer that question…

Outside of Killer Whales there are no marine mammals regarded as such pure and cunning hunters. Patrolling the waters of the Southern Ocean, Leopard Seals are mainly found in Antarctica.

Though not as quick as the variety of penguin species that they hunt, they use the surrounding icebergs to hide until the opportune moment when the penguins leave their nesting grounds and reenter the water.

Able to open their mouth to a gaping 120 degrees, these Leopard Seals take quick hold of their prey before thrashing them violently in order to remove the skin and feathers entirely from the captured penguins.

Vicious? Yes. Beautiful? Absolutely. Continuing to dive in Antarctic waters I can only hope that one is curious enough to one day swim over and interact with me.